How to

Photograph insects and other invertebrates

Macro photography provides real insights which are simply not possible from observation. It also allows wildlife photography in your back garden, where you can find subjects all around you. This makes it ideal for the busy photographer – it's easy to get good shots in a quick half hour session. Macro photography is very rewarding, and best of all – specialist pro kit for this work is a lot cheaper than that required for birds or mammals.

Lenses

1. A true 'macro' (i.e. giving a true life size reproduction) lens is essential. There are a number of alternatives (close-up filters, reversing rings), but these are really unsatisfactory in the long term.

2. Macro lenses come in a range of focal lengths, typically 55/60mm, 90/105mm and 150/180mm.

3. The shorter the focal length, the closer you need to be to your subject, which for flighty insects can be a bind. Longer focal lengths also help isolate the subject from the background. While many photographers of butterflies and dragonflies prefer the longest focal lengths, I find that the intermediate lenses work best for smaller insects. For me, the choice depends on the type of photographer you are. Do you prefer to get handheld shots - the the 105mm length is best (especially with VR - see below) because it gives you a chance to get shake-free shots. I really like using the Sigma 180, mainly for working distance (you get life-size when you're further away), but you have to use a tripod for stability, which makes stalking your quarry much more difficult. However, if you prefer working with a tripod anyway, then the longer focal length is superb.

4. When choosing a macro lens, consider three things. First, does it have VR (vibration reduction)? The Nikkor 105mm macro is currently the only macro lens with VR, but others will follow. The problem with macro photography is that very slight movements can cause you to lose focus. These movements can be on a horizontal (in-out) plane, which VR can't affect. They can also be on a vertical (up-down) plane, which it can help a little. However, what I have never seen mentioned in reviews is that VR helps you maintain your subject in the focusing spot by reducing the apparent affect of camera shake – a real bonus. Second, does it have internal focusing? This is a real convenience when using a tripod, as some macro lenses extend greatly when coming towards a 1:1 reproduction ratio. Third, does it have 'silent' focusing (Canon: USM; Nikon: SWM; Sigma: HSM). This tends to not only be quieter (hunting lenses are an irritation), but also quicker.




Lighting

5. Your choice of lighting falls into two broad camps. First, you can use natural light, which is often fine for most subjects. However, avoid sunny days (the contrast between shadows and highlights are too great for digital sensors to cope with); overcast days provide an even light which suits may subjects. If you can, use a reflector to bounce a little light into shadows.

6. Second, you can use a flash system, preferably with TTL control. Nikon make an excellent macro lighting system, but there are alternatives. A ring-flash provides an even, flat light, and is designed for macrophotography. I find that this works best for extreme close-up work, but overly dominates other subjects. The Sigma macro-flash unit is rightly popular, and allows you to vary the input of the flash from either side of the lens. My favoured lighting for larger insects is to use a standard flashgun fitted with a Sto-fen diffuser for fill in light. This provides a subtle lighting system that flatters the subject, and importantly, avoids the 'shot at night' effect of using full flash. My best bit of generally unknown advice - always set your camera for rear curtain flash, so that your camera exposes more for the background than standard fron curtain flash.




Other equipment

7. Extension tubes are definitely worth buying; they allow you to get even closer to your subjects. Kenko make an excellent set which retain electronic communication between the lens and camera. One major advantage of extension tubes is that they don't add any glass elements to the set up. The disadvantage is the loss of light, making focus slower. Extension tubes can also be used with longer lenses (e.g. 300mm telephotos) - these are ideal for photographing dragonflies when light is good.

8. A tripod is very helpful for non-mobile subjects, allowing slower shutter speeds. I find that for most insects, a tripod is not needed, as the insects move too quickly to track with a tripod. However, a beanbag is a useful lightweight prop for ground-level photography, such as ant colonies or ground-dwelling species. One place where a tripod is useful is if you are photographing insects at dawn, where they are torpid and less likely to move.

9. The best tripods allow you to get down very low, while still providing rigid support. For example, the Manfrotto 055 PRO allows you to detach the centre column so that it can be used horizontally. Effectively, you have your camera on a boom, which I find very effective.





Choosing your subjects

10. I'd recommend that people start with hoverflies rather than butterflies or dragonflies, simply because they are so common and easy to find. If you can get these right, then the rest are a doddle. In my not-unusual garden, I've photographed over 20 species of hoverfly.

11. This is not to say that you should avoid the more charismatic species – there is little more spectacular than a good butterfly image.




Technique

12. Try to get your subject on one plane of focus. You will have millimetres of acceptable depth of field (DoF), so maximise what you have by choosing a subject that lies parallel to your plane of focus. This works well with damselflies or butterflies with their wings shut, or butterflies and dragonflies with their wings completely open.

13. Use an aperture of F8 or smaller. Somewhere around F11-16 maximises DoF while allowing a fast enough shutter speed, and avoiding serious loss of quality through diffraction effects. Don't bother going further than this with an APS-C sized sensor (most digital SLRs) or F22 with a full-frame sensor size.

14. Always focus on the eyes; if the eyes are out of focus, your shot is wasted. Humans quite naturally look at eyes first, even with species as alien as the invertebrates.

15. Focus, hold your breath, and roll your finger over the shutter release – this helps avoid jabbing at the shutter reducing camera shake. Once the picture is in focus, take the shot – wait a moment and you'll have involuntarily moved the camera out of focus.

16. Try to get a clear background. Unfortunately, this is easier said than done, but try to find subjects on stems or blades of grass, where there is a separation from the background. The blurred background will help make the insect 'pop' in the frame.

17. Early summer mornings are excellent, as there is plenty of light, but the insects are still torpid, allowing you to get close without your quarry disappearing.

18. Flower meadows are fantastic, if you can find them, otherwise make your own – a small patch of flowering Scabious or similar plants will be very attractive to nectar feeding insects. Ivy is an under-rated plant, but in the autumn is very attractive to nectar seeking insects.

19. Try to get your species doing something interesting, such as hovering, mating or feeding.

20. Consider placing your subject in context, such as within its habitat, to add more impact.

21. Some photographers chill their subjects before placing them in situ, or even glue them in place. Don't bother. Chilling is very temporary, and gluing will probably kill your subject.

22. Stalk your subject, taking care not to throw your shadow over the subject, as this will probably disturb them. Some species are harder to stalk than others; dragonflies are notorious for their excellent eye-sight and can be hard to get close to. Other species are much easier to get close to, such as the flies. Even so, dragonflies will allow you to get close when their used to your presence, but butterflies can be frustrating, as their flight patterns are very unpredictable.

23. Take hundreds of shots, after all, it doesn't cost you anything if you shoot digital. Many will lack critical sharpness, so you increase your chances of getting one right by taking plenty of images.

24. Many people swear by manually focusing on the subject, and then moving in and out slightly to maintain accurate focus. I find this quite difficult with a standard viewfinder, and rely on autofocus for many shots, which works fine for me. I think that this will depend on you and your camera/lens set-up.

25. Finally – have fun! If you found this useful or have any comments, let me know.